The Beautiful People of SS'19

Hidenori Kumakiri operates from a template of transformative pieces kept modern by an exacting eye

Hidenori Kumakiri of Beautiful People certainly made a compelling case for a neutral summer at his show on Monday in Paris. His inimitable flair for organic tones was seen in all forms; fibres, tones and light. Housed in the sunlit glass house which is known as Pavillon Ledoyen in Paris, the models radiated from every corner of the room.

The collection started with a clean palette of cream and black, before introducing a soft wine coloured check and finally a jolt of lime. The fabrics used can be delicately described as natural; salted imperfect cottons and materials died with red wine that celebrated the earthiness of the labels DNA.

A grounded wardrobe of transformative pieces left themselves open to endless variations; dresses that wrap and morph, jackets that peel around the body, coats that appear to be sliced. All which was innovatively displayed on the runway in a theatrical-like demonstration of deconstruction. Pre-finale four models walked out on stage to have their look transformed by lab coat wearing staff in front of all on-lookers. It was a conceptual communication of how Kumari’s clothing is not only beautiful – case in point, the labels namesake – but also versatile.

The process was put down to ‘constructing and reconstructing, exploring the metamorphic process of dressmaking as countless ways to wear a piece and freeing the individual’. It all sounded very arty but the concept of different ways to wear an outfit sells. Kumari’s ten-year-old label is well known in the Japanese domestic market and gaining a lot of attention internationally. Which is metaphoric of how the clothing felt, sound foundations with extraordinary highlights.