Inspired by the narrative of a postwar majorette wearing a sequined costume and her boyfriend’s parka after a baton twirling, marching band parade, for Numeroventuno’s AW’18 show, Alessandro Dell’Aqua offered ladylike glitz grounded by military masculinity and a punk rock edge.
A series of crystal embroidered slip dresses and pencil skirts sparkled with palm and firework patterns, whilst little shift dresses followed slim cut tailored trousers, military jackets and shirts studded with eyelets. Adding a dash of theatrics to the looks were majorette-style hats and elbow-length leather gloves. One of Dell'Acqua’s signatures is the ability to harmonise polarising contrasts, and a sequined one-shoulder mini dress, styled atop a classic red plaid shirt, perfectly balanced the nuances of punk grunge and sophisticated femininity.
Cow print trench coats with wide leopard print collars added a healthy dose of garish luxury, as did an overcoat shimmering entirely with sequins, depicting the razzle-dazzle of Las Vegas’s lights by night. Similar iterations on a long sleeve mini dress, pencil skirt and leather bomber jacket also featured sequined Vegas night scenes, complete with casino clubs, neon signage, slot machines, bustling traffic and snazzy showmen. Shearling lined casual parkas, slouchy knits and wide-cut pants added that element of pared-down, masculine ease.
Punk elements played out in the form of plaid shirts, checkered coats and shiny vinyl trousers, along with tartan tweed jackets and pencil skirts. Pointed creepers with chunky metal buckle closures further secured a punk rock attitude, offering a solid contrast with some of the more dainty looks.
In fact accessories were a major standout and stacked creepers offered a bold point of difference. There were satin military green versions with micro-crystal detailing, brushed leather creepers with cow print and leopard print inserts, and pointed knee-high boot editions. Other footwear options were more on the feminine side, including a range of pointed slingback stilettos, sandal stilettos and kitten heel pumps, with calfskin and crystal bows haphazardly strewn across the front and side. Open toe slippers, pointed mules and kitten heel ankle boots offered a more laid back feel, in options such as metallic gold, silver, bordeaux red, olive green and bright yellow. Sporty trainer styles were also noteworthy, hybridising the classic running shoe and the bulky hiking boot. With either a chunky gold or silver rubber sole, the sports-chic trainer selection included both high tops and low tops in a simple colour palette of black, white, silver and gold.
A distinct line of commercially sound handbags amplified the layers of flirty femininity throughout the collection. Amongst the inspired pieces were Lolita bags with both chainmail and leather handles, offered in leopard and cow prints, Klein blue, lime yellow, caramel, black and army green. A shoulder bag edged with glitter fringe paillettes added to that overall showbiz feel, as did a number of boxy frame bags with a cascading fringe lining the long shoulder strap. A tiny frame number with lateral embroidered fringe made for an elegant evening bag - the perfect statement piece to compliment any wardrobe.
Playing with the tension between ostentatious detail, delicate silhouettes and hard-edged elements, as well as number of opposing influences, Alessandro Dell'Aqua offered a well-executed collection, complete with a charming narrative and statement essentials that most definitely speak to the modern woman.
Take a glimpse at one of the most exciting shows of Milan Fashion Week this season, with the full No.21 catwalk show presented exclusively in 360° Virtual Reality view, powered by ORDRE: