Moon Young Hee's Dichotomous Deconstruction

The designer's SS'19 collection was at once aesthetically simple and technically complex, closing the season on a strong note.

Having one of the final shows of the season, especially as a small label, is an unenviable position. But Moon Young Hee drew a crowd to her SS19 show regardless of the general fashion fatigue that sets in at towards the end of fashion month. In the Ecole de Médecine, the Korean-born, Paris-based designer showed an assortment of deconstructed tailoring which was at once aesthetically restrained and technically sophisticated.

Playing with translucency, soft monochrome plastics were fashioned into trousers, parkas and duster coats which revealed the layers beneath and gave depth and complexity to each look. Pushing this experimentation to the extreme, sheer suiting in bubblegum pink showcased impeccable tailoring, but was one of the few examples of a straightforward garment.

Following this, a white linen dress, a beige skirt suit, and a simple red slip were reimagined without a straight seam in sight. Everything was asymmetric, with unexpected folds and visible reconstruction which added complexity to what — from a distance — were uncomplicated pieces.

Herein lies Hee’s strength: creating commercially friendly garments which reveal their elaborate construction upon closer inspection. All paired with trainers, the collection was styled to maximise her relaxed and generous aesthetic — undoubtedly what the audience was begging for after the last marathon month of fashion weeks across Europe.