The Sies Marjan show began just like a movie. The spotlights that greeted the likes of Constanza Lombardi, Linda Fargo and Elizabeth von der Goltz danced around the curtained room at Sir Stages on the ground floor; Michel Gaubert’s mystical soundtrack set the mood. Swarovski crystals piled high - 5cm deep - seemed almost hallucinatory, like navigating a walk on the moon.
As it happened, Sander Lak partnered with Swarovski and the results of this collaboration included two exclusive looks, hand-sewn using custom-made sheets of crystal-mesh: more runway fantasies than potential hot sellers, although the VIP pre-order business could be compellingly lucrative.
This was Lak’s 7th runway show, and by all standards his most fully realised. With his signature as strong as ever, the collection was primarily a riot of colour against textures that felt uncomfortable at times yet somehow still worked cohesively. "We took the neon shades that we worked with before, that felt cliché, and made them feel fresh,” noted Lak on the retro colour code.
On the runway, asymmetric dresses were punctuated with loosely draped trench coats and suiting. The navy blue leather jacket and trousers will surely be the crowd pleaser - perhaps because they make a statement together, or maybe it is just because leather was a stark contrast to the silks and lace. His fabric game was strong too - seen in exaggerated gathering, pressed pleating and darting. All highlighting the imperfections of intermittently exposed seams: irregularity is Marjan's strong suit.
True, some of the looks will require modification before they hit the sales floor – only hardcore fans will go for the rainbow ruffled dresses. But there was an animated sense of exploration here, something otherworldly and vaguely space age to the collection. And, of course, the crystals: bringing the sparkle back to New York fashion week.