London-based Nynne Kunde is hard to catch between long hours at her Brick Lane studio and an overflowing press diary. This time last year, the Copenhagen-born talent was graduating from Istituto Marangoni, where she won womenswear designer of the year for her final collection. Today, she’s prepping for her show at Milan fashion week (MFW) SS20 in September.
As the date approaches, Kunde’s excitement is infectious, even over the phone. “I can’t express how grateful I am to be sponsored on schedule at MFW and have a Paris showroom for SS20.” Transitioning from a university runway to the official fashion week schedule is an incredible opportunity, giving Nynne exposure to a global audience of buyers. Programme leader of BA Fashion Business at Istituto Marangoni, Sennait Ghebreab is equally enthusiastic about her capability. “Emerging brands like Nynne have the potential to capitalise on this ongoing shift in the consumer preferences. For example, she has the ability to create online buzz and attract new customers,” she says of the award winning designer.
“Danish stylists request neutral tones like blacks and greys. Whereas, in London, I see more risk-taking.”
For SS20, Kunde’s designs will take inspiration from the film noir and strong post-war women of the 1940s, mixed with bold ‘80s fashion - a continuation of her FW19 concept. Think ruching, puffed sleeves and super sleek leather numbers, from vibrant yellow dresses to black and white maxi skirts printed with movie stars. Infused with the same concept as her clothes, Kunde designs luxury jewellery too, hand-crafted in Florence. This season bags will also make a debut in her Milan collection.
“My jewellery shapes relate to the industrial time of the women during the 40s. And I have small box bags, shoppers and square, oversized styles. It’s about having daily fashion that makes a statement and empowers you.” But she’s quick to state that Nynne isn’t conventional power dressing: “It’s not about trying to look like a man anymore.” Instead, the designs are overtly feminine and celebrate that. “I’d love to see my clothes on someone like Adwoa Aboah.” she adds.
Indeed it’s not hard to imagine the model/activist wearing her clothes as the label is a perfect marriage of her hometown and birthplace, combining London’s cool, creatively colourful DNA with Copenhagen’s refined sophistication. As she explains: “Actually, Danish stylists request my more neutral tones like blacks and greys. Whereas, in London, I see more risk-taking and everyone asks for all of the colourful pieces.” The Asian market, on the other hand, seem to love both her colours and classic silhouettes - super chic store Ron Herman in Tokyo recently picked it up.
Kunde expects her stockists to grow with this next collection and Ghebreab sees this as a strong possibility adding, “ I think she is tapping into fashionable yet timeless designs which gives the brand quite a high chance of commercial success. One of her talents as a designer is the ability to make unique designs into commercial pieces - an invaluable combination!”
As the designer finds her feet, when it comes to accessories, it appears her business model isn’t entirely set in stone quite yet. “If the bags aren’t ready for the SS20 collection then we will just drop them later on, though,” Kunde exclaims, seemingly relaxed from fashion week deadlines. Moreover, all of the jewellery is made-to-order, meaning she can take things in her stride and simultaneously be more sustainable (she often uses recycled nylons and silks for her collections too).
Ending on an inspiring note, Kunde continues, “I try to be as sustainable as I can be. My generation is a lot more aware of trying to help the environment, more than the designers before us. We feel like we have to do our bit.” With young designers championing sustainability, the future of fashion feels in safe hands.