Although Milan Fashion Week Men’s seems to be losing some of its shine as younger, edgier labels and even big players increasingly opt to show in neighbouring Paris (see Gucci), a handful of fresh Italian labels held their own this season, seemingly unshaken by the growing disruption. Below, discover ORDRE’s favourites from Milan Men’s AW’19.
No.21 Reinterprets Masculinity
This season No.21’s creative director, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, explores a fresh approach to masculinity, breaking free from gender stereotypes. “For too long, men’s fashion has been imprisoned by genres and trends, from dated businesswear to the more recent sportswear,” he says in an official press release. “I feel the time has come, not only to jumble up references but also to construct a type of apparel that can bypass all classifications.”
Seen in the finish and detail of outerwear is a subtle blurring of gender boundaries: coats are cut from shiny black radzimir and tuxedos feature delicate lace. Slick jackets, shirts and trousers, made from glazed poplin and glossy patent leather, play on the idea of eroticism, as do chunky dog-leash chains, sheer lace shirting and teasing lace-up tees. Despite an experimental approach to textures, there’s a refined elegance to the collection, grounded by sharp tailoring and a muted palette of black, grey, navy blue and camel.
Les Hommes Reach the Summit
For AW’19, designers Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch abandon the polished and often austere aesthetic of previous Les Hommes collections in favour of laid back silhouettes. Combining Himalayan mountaineering influences with nineties neon rave elements, the duo embraces a relevant and refreshing take on menswear.
Signature tailoring is softened on trousers and suit jackets and matched with technical anoraks, puffers in vivid hues, ski-inspired overcoats and transparent vinyl windbreakers – all finished with high-vis fluorescent details. The sports theme continues with T-shirts and tracksuits made in collaboration with Italian heritage sportswear label, Sergio Tacchini, while chunky oversized knits and scarves reflect the rich and colourful artworks of Tibetan Buddhist monks.
London Calling at M1992
Inspired by his teenage years studying English in London, M1992 designer Dorian Tarantini looks to nineties British pop culture for his latest collection, mixing in Italian sartorial flair to create an elevated yet playful lineup.
Slim suits run rife in bold red hues, muted blues and traditional plaid. In stark contrast are relaxed rugby sweatshirts and collarless jackets sporting the Union Jack. Photographic prints reflecting residential council estates and middle-class rioters surface on overcoats, shirts and tops, while a cigarette print appearing on a denim mini dress and trouser combination lightens the mood. This season the label also teams up with heritage British outerwear brand Baracuta, offering a selection of classic Harrington jackets with an updated appeal: removable sleeves.