Having presented a Spring Summer ‘18 collection charged with vivid colours, modern silhouettes and a fresh coastal sensibility, this season saw Valentin Yudashkin draw the label back to its Moscow roots, playing ode to snowy winters and traditional Russian opulence. Held in a 17th century ballroom at Le Grand Intercontinental in Paris, the atmosphere was buzzing with notable attendees including Russian royalty, editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris, Emanuelle Alt, and esteemed fashion critic, Suzy Menkes.
A host of minimalist looks rose to the top of the rich lineup, such as a cashmere high-neck dress with delicate pleated fan sleeves, as well as a tailored trouser and sleeveless high-neck combination. Commercially elegant suiting, fit for the modern power woman, were major standouts, including streamlined feminine cuts, cropped suit jackets, oversized double breasted styles and a number of belted blazer-dresses in wool crepe and bouclé. A cream silk kimono jacket with large feather-lined pockets was also a highlight, adding a more pared-down appeal. Offering a little more jazz and theatrics, but remaining highly sophisticated, was a pearlescent jacquard tailcoat trouser suit, with subtle embellishments and a mesmerising Op Art pattern.
The comparative sea of evening gowns bejeweled with crystals, tufts of white plumage and organza snowflakes added a heavy dose of drama. Pearl and rhinestone embellishments iced flowing dresses, silk blazers and floor length overcoats, while sculptural ridges on hems, sleeves and waists resembled snow dunes. A strict palette of cream, soft beige, slate grey and bright limestone, kept the entire lineup ever coherent.
Delve deeper into the collection as ORDRE’s Fashion Director, Kirsten Lock chats to the designer himself, Valentin Yudashkin, backstage at his Paris Fashion Week show:
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