Out of the four major fashion cities many of the industry’s most prolific names show in Paris each season making it a go-to destination for press and buyers. But this can often pose challenges for young designers competing for the spotlight against the world’s top houses.
Thankfully, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode launched Designers Apartment in 2012, giving emerging talents a much-needed platform. Backed by DEFI (the Committee for the Development and Promotion of Apparel), the initiative offers year-round support and training to a dozen French designers – selected each year by an expert committee – as well as an all-important showroom during Paris Fashion Week at Palais de Tokyo.
Designers Apartment is open 10am to 08pm until October 2nd, at Galerie Supérieure, Palais de Tokyo, Paris. ORDRE highlight five designers who should be on your radar this season.
Parisian womenswear label, Boyarovskaya, was founded in 2016 by designer Maria Boyarovskaya and fashion photographer Artem Kononenko. Placing an emphasis on deconstructed tailoring, collections are minimal yet cleverly detailed. Key designs include versatile trench coats and transformable skirts in a muted colour palette.
With a refreshing take on modern elegance, the label is found at international retailers like Rare Market in Seoul, the Feathered in Mexico City, 10th Shop in Hong Kong, and online at Farfetch.
Graduating from Paris’ prestigious Atelier Chardon Savard in 2016, Nicolas Lecourt Mansion only launched his eponymous brand at the beginning of 2018 yet it’s already selling at Los Angeles’s leading luxury boutique H.Lorenzo.
Collections are defined by sultry satin dresses with unexpected cutaway details, and tailored power suits with puffed sleeves, creating a daring but sophisticated wardrobe for the modern woman. Using couture-like constructions, dresses retail for up to USD$3,500.
Founded by Central Saint Martins graduate, Hélène Timsit, and McGill graduate, Quentin Poisson, Mazarine is a womenswear label blending traditional couture techniques with modern tailoring.
Sourcing quality materials from France, Italy and Japan, and with production based in France, designs transcend ages and places, resulting in a fresh and youthful aesthetic with quirky details like wavy hems and asymmetric buttons.
Another label launched just this year, Airvei is a menswear brand helmed by Julien Goulard. Debuting his first collection 'Artéfact’ at Helsinki Fashion Week in July, Goulard’s background in industrial design offers a unique perspective on men’s fashion, rooted in functional design.
Using a neutral colour palette of cool greys, beige and black, loose silhouettes and geometric structures define Airvei’s collections, which he often finishes with graphic motifs. T-shirts retail for a cool €90, hoodies are priced equally reasonably at €170, while workwear-inspired jackets are worth €350.
Perfecting his fashion techniques at Paris’ Atelier Chardon Savard, Arthur Avellano’s fine art background informs his unusual and innovative collections. Using latex as his preferred medium, he reimagines the material through his personal lens, stripping it of its customary fetishistic connotations.
Working in collaboration with specialised laboratories, the designer develops his own hybrid fabric using it to create modern unisex collections with exaggerated silhouettes often balanced with tailored pieces made from Italian wool. With prestigious stockists like Opening Ceremony in the U.S., prices range between USD$800 and USD$1,800.