Designer Masanori Morikawa’s latest collection for Christian Dada draws influence from artist Nobuyoshi Araki’s Laments - From Close Range/Skyscapes, a poignant and emotional two-volume photographic book dedicated to his late wife.
Building on the label’s signature aesthetic of languid silhouettes, ultra-soft shapes dominate this season. Shirts and tailored workwear jackets with large sleeves counterbalance slouchy drawstring trousers. A scatter of sportswear pieces, like a stark white windbreaker and slim tracksuit bottoms, keep the collection youthful. In contrast, a silk kimono with fraying ends and an asymmetric patchwork knit with webbed holes impart a sense of ageing.
Araki’s black and white surrealist photos surface as prints: on men’s suiting, women’s blouses, pleated skirts and silk twill pyjamas. Acid-coloured prints appear on oversized cotton t-shirts, referencing the artist’s painterly image series, Skyscapes. Reflecting his melancholic aesthetic and the notion of passing time, cotton tops and denim pieces are overdyed to look faded.
Proving Morikawa’s wit as a designer, camera components translate into functional details: supersized collars and jacket pockets interpret the zoom of the lens, whilst elegant obi-style belts repurpose the camera strap.
A quiet but creative reflection of raw human emotion, the collection's success lies with Morikawa conceptual layering and clever detailing. Rather than appearing fragmented, the designer carefully balances juxtaposing elements to create a modern and coherent lineup.