As the fashion world gears up for the final round of men’s AW’19 collections in New York, ORDRE recaps the most exciting labels to showcase across the markets this season. Visit the ready-to-wear and accessories designers who should be on your radar, and gain exclusive access to their wholesale collections on ORDRE’s online showrooms below.
Shaken by fashion’s culture of overconsumption, H&M Design Award winner Priya Ahluwalia launched her London-based brand, Ahluwalia Studio, in 2018 with elevated sportswear silhouettes crafted from recycled textiles. After debuting at Paris Fashion Week AW’19 in collaboration with Adidas, fans now include A-listers like singer-songwriter Miguel.
Often reworking uniforms from different eras and cultures, Melbourne-based label Amxander – helmed by design duo Jason Alexander Pang and Rong Jake Chen – offers a fresh take on streetwear. Launched in 2013, the label landed its first runway show at Melbourne’s Spring Fashion Week in 2015, with the designers later receiving nomination for the prestigious International Woolmark Prize 2017/18.
Lady Gaga-approved designer Calvin Luo founded his namesake label in 2014. Playing on refined silhouettes from Americana subcultures of the ‘50s, ‘70s, and ‘90s, the Shanghai-based label debuted on schedule at New York Fashion Week for SS'18, followed by a stand-alone menswear collection the following year.
Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY
Informed by East London’s colourful nightlife scene, Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY celebrates gender-nonconformity through bold and whimsical designs. Established in 2015, BoF top 500 member and LVMH Prize shortlist designer Charles Jeffrey is considered a favourite amongst pop-culture icons like Harry Styles.
2017/18 International Woolmark Prize winner Christopher Bevans pushes the boundaries of fabric and function with his New York-based label, Dyne. Often combining sportswear silhouettes with refined tailoring and technological innovations, Dyne has amassed a large celebrity following including Jay-Z, Pharrell Williams, LeBron James, John Legend and Kanye West.
Launched in 2017 by current Central Saint Martins student Eastwood Danso, the London-based streetwear brand of the same name is characterised by functional, utilitarian cuts and bold graphic details. The designer’s latest AW’19 collection was supported by leading footwear brand Converse, with fans including Kpop artist Dean.
2018 International Woolmark Prize winner Matthew Miller balances functionality and formality through military influences and technical sportswear elements. Often using his collections to voice political and social messages, Miller’s anti-establishment aesthetic is a firm favourite amongst celebrities such as Kate Tempest and Kasabian.
Voodoo Les Incompétents
Crossing paths at university, Emeline Morellet and Stephen Smith found they shared a common design aesthetic and launched Voodoo Les Incompétents together in 2015. Grounded by laidback streetwear elements, the label’s first collection debuted on the runway with Ecole Superieure at the Mode de Montreal.
Worn by music artists such as Kendrick Lamar and The Weeknd, Second/Layer designers Joshua Willis and Anthony de Padovane relaunched their footwear brand, Article No., in Los Angeles in 2018. Born from a shared aesthetic rooted in their Southern Californian upbringing, designs balance the elegance of high fashion with LA’s gritty street culture.
“Crafted exclusively from leather scraps, each pouch is distinct,” says eponymous Korean designer Aram Lee. Formerly designing bags for Kate Spade, she launched her handbag label in New York in 2016 with a strong environmental message: to reduce the industry standard wastage of leather.
Informed by the geometry of the natural world, accessories label Côte&Ciel blend function and form to create minimalist bags for the modern-day nomad. Founded in Paris in 2008, the label has collaborated with leading ready-to-wear labels including Liam Hodges, Y’s by Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garçons, and even luxury retailer 10 Corso Como.
Inspired by nostalgic memories of her father and childhood holidays to Marfa, Texas and Naoshima in Japan, designer Coline Madec founded her scarf label, Labrume, in Paris in 2018. Committed to exclusively designing elevated silk scarves, often in collaboration with artists, designers and photographers, Labrume brings fresh flavour to this niche market.
Names the Agency
Representing a curated edit of lifestyle brands from a range of categories including jewellery, footwear, eyewear and fragrance, Names is a new generation agency pushing the status quo. Among its current portfolio of labels are South Korean eyewear label Projekt Produkt, founded by optometrists with a strong vision for fashion-forward design, and Italian footwear brand Vico, who create unisex sneakers championing customisation and versatility.