It could have been Pam Hogg’s recent Guardian profile that drew the biggest crowd in years to her SS’19 show at Fashion Scout on Friday evening, but who’s to say? Capping off the first day of London Fashion Week, Holborn’s Freemasons Hall filled to capacity with fashion fans, music fans, middle-aged fans who have been Hogg-devotees since the 80s — you could pick them as they diligently hooted and hollered every new look — who jostled to catch a glimpse of the show.
While a heaving crowd may indicate that the punk designer/musician/activist’s brand is having some sort of renaissance, the collection was a typical Hogg affair. Present were her staple pieces: printed catsuits, enormous tulle-covered headpieces, pussybow blouses and sheer negligee that made one question, “Haven’t I seen this before?” Add a healthy dose of her favourite model/muses and some inexplicably odd characters wearing very little clothing at all, and you’ve got “Dr Hogg’s Fantastic Fabulon”, as the show was titled.
Where in the past, collections have maintained a strong — albeit obvious — theme, Hogg’s Fabulon lacked coherence: a half-hearted mishmash of old collections repackaged into one. For all Hogg’s foibles, she seems to be striking a note. The cult figure bemoaned her rebel outcast role in the industry in that Guardian piece, insinuating that she’d happily go hit the mainstream for the right money. With all the buzz around Friday evening, perhaps that time is closer than we think.