With recurring standouts including the likes of Cecilie Bahnsen, Saks Potts and Ganni offering the very best in Scandinavian fashion design, this season also saw a couple of newcomers present inspired ideas and a different direction, including Blanche, Laerke Andersen and Baum und Pferdgarten.
Dubbed the only sustainable denim specialists in Copenhagen, Blanche is a fresh label grounded by eco-conscious production. Launched in August 2017 by Mette Fredin and Melissa Bec, their AW’18 explored new cuts, materials and different ways of manipulating their hero fabric. Models donned denim on denim ensembles including a mix of wide-leg, boot-cut and straight-cut jeans, ankle-length denim trenches and structured, cinched-waist jackets. Subtle but highly impactful detailing came in the form of split-leg flares, frayed edges, hints of piping and a solid selection of indigo hues. A couple of ready-to-wear offerings and chunky knits were further thrown into the mix for good measure. With everything made locally in Copenhagen using only Global Organic Textile Standard–approved fabric and deadstock fabric, Blanche is gearing up to be the next big thing in sustainable fashion, with an understated but elevated appeal.
Cropped jackets, mish-mash patterns, silk slip dresses, boiler suits and dungarees; this season was a subtle departure from Ganni’s signature florals and girlish edges, opting for a more pared-down, relaxed aesthetic. With the collection deemed a love letter to Copenhagen, founders Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup commissioned artist Ana Kras to wander the city and photograph whatever caught her eye. Select photos lined the venue and featured on tees and separates throughout the collection - a way to reconnect the world with the effortless cool appeal of the Scandinavian city. A standout from this season came in the form of a high-waist grey suit combo, worn with a deep brown leather shirt and finished with crystals embroidered to the seams of the trouser legs and jacket pockets - a laid back silhouette with a very sophisticated air.
Instead of their usual spot on the Copenhagen Fashion Week calendar, Danish ‘It’ label Saks Potts ventured across the pond to debut their AW’18 collection at New York Fashion week. Offering their signature candy-colored mink outerwear, this season saw more of a focus on ladylike, 1950’s-esque coats, with fluffy fur trims on collars and sleeves adding an extra bout of sophistication. An expansion to categories like silk dresses, shirting, swimwear and bags featured whimsical polka dots, pastel florals and leopard prints. In fact, the collection referenced Princess Diana’s royalty style, presented inside the National Arts Club in a tea party setting. Having launched a special capsule collection on Net-a-Porter just a week prior to their show, the label, which is only in its third year of business, is on a relentless road to success.
Danish darling Cecilie Bahnsen continued to stay true to her label’s core aesthetic and best sellers, such as full-skirted babydoll dresses and flouncy volumes. This season saw a subdued shift in magnitude, with silhouettes a little less girlish and a little more grown-up. Still with a youthful appeal, heavy knitwear was balanced out with dainty fil coupe skirts and cotton shorts, which added a brand new tomboyish edge. Her trademark puffed sleeve dresses were present, explored through rich black velvet and quilting with embroidered details. Dipping into a new category this season, Bahnsen also debuted a set of chic jacquard drawstring pouch bags with velvet ribbons.
This year’s headliners at Copenhagen Fashion Week, Baum und Pferdgarten served up a collection that was commercially on the mark, while maintaining a fresh energy. Directed at “the blooming youth of today” - as referenced in their show notes - it played with the tension between feminine and masculine shapes, drawing elements from 80’s aesthetics. There was a cool mix of Houndstooth patterns, floral motifs and contrasting colours including disco purples, scarlets, candy pinks and vivid mustards. Powersuits, tracksuits, layered skirts and shirting with frilled details were fashioned from fabrics like velvet, corduroy, sheer silks and wool, offering a wealth of texture.
Recently landing the Magasin du Nord Fashion Prize 2017, designer Lærke Andersen made her show debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week this season. The Central Saint Martins graduate who launched with her AW’15 collection is a master of cut and construction, fusing together multiple layers and materials to create inspired pieces. Sports-inflected classics such as sweat suits, hoodies and puffer jackets were coupled with functional workwear separates, playing with oversized silhouettes. Corduroy, denim and jersey were used in abundance, with outerwear a clear focus, including graphic nylon trenches and shearling lined overcoats. With an aim to erase boundaries between the feminine and masculine, the collection was urban, raw and highly accessible. Cutting her teeth with the likes of Henrik Vibskov and Louis Vuitton before establishing her own label, and already stocked at retailers such as H.Lorenzo in LA, and Opening Ceremony worldwide, Lærke Andersen is definitely a designer to watch.