The Tate Britain’s towering ceilings and industrial art-filled walls made for a fitting backdrop for Victoria Beckham’s AW’19 show, which presented polished power staples with the modern woman in mind. “I thought about what women want and modern femininity, and how to curate these ideas into a collection for today,” the designer said in an official press release.
Alongside signature greys and camels, Beckham refreshed her favoured languid silhouettes with a palette of punchy scarlets, lilacs and teals. Despite the brand’s well-publicised financial woes, sales are up and the opening look – a white and red windowpane-checkered skirt suit, draped over a vermillion blouse with a matching neckerchief – set a vibrant and uplifting tone.
Next came fluid pencil skirts and calf-grazing dresses – both core brand items – in textured tweed, houndstooth, plaid and smooth wool. These were eloquently matched (or mismatched) with overcoats, tailored blazers or cosy turtleneck knits, perfectly executing the familiar tension between softness and rigidity so well known to the brand.
A quiet nod to the ‘70s elevated the lineup with a sense of after-hours versatility: Vintage gold chain motifs surfaced on loose satin silk shirts with pointed collars and asymmetric dresses gently gathered at the hip, while a dusting of sequins in oversized chain patterns added a dash of glamour to skirts and roomy overcoats.
Central to Beckham’s success is an innate understanding of what women want, and this season she delivered a wardrobe of confident yet highly wearable feminine staples that confirmed her discerning eye. “There are retro touches but it’s all brought together into something encapsulating. It's what we call the modern feminine alphabet, a vocabulary of dressing for now,” she mused.
Yet the collection was not her only triumph: Ahead of releasing her direct-to-consumer beauty line later this year, Sunday’s show was live-streamed worldwide (and on Piccadilly Circus’ giant screens) to mark the launch of her YouTube channel. Featuring personally curated beauty content, and a behind-the-scenes peek into her work and family life, it will be a unique way for Beckham to engage with her audience and have complete control over her brand narrative.