IZZY CAMMARERI 08 February, 2018
THE STANDOUT LABELS FROM PARIS FASHION WEEK MEN’S AW18
Suiting was a knockout at Paris Men’s Fashion Week this season, with many designers offering their updated take on tailored trousers, suit jackets and shirts from a myriad of viewpoints and influences. At Hed Mayner it was a focus on exaggerated volumes; at Thom Browne it was striking debonair; at NIUKU it was double-breasted pinstripes with unusual detailing. Sportswear references were heavy on the runways too, with the likes of Heron Preston flashing an inspired and experimental collection in collaboration with Carhartt WIP and NASA. Read on to discover our top picks from the French capital for AW'18.
For his third season in Paris, the Israeli designer played heavily with proportion, volume and magnified silhouettes. With suiting as the constant leitmotiv, Mayner offered a different angle to the classic tailored offering, through unexpected details such as back-to-front shirting, fingertip-grazing sleeves, exaggerated collars and padded cotton workwear shirts compressed beneath sheer nylon tank tops. A conversation piece stood out as a full knitted jumper attached as the front collar accent of a shirt. The collection offered a playful, boyish wearability and an individualistic edge.
As one of three shortlisted finalists for the ANDAM 2017 ‘Creative Brand Prize’, Niuku has been gaining considerable traction over the last year, so their debut show on the Paris menswear schedule this season inevitably amassed a huge crowd. Offering Nineties style sportswear staples, lifted with solid men's tailoring inspirations from numerous eras, Niuku’s show blurred gender lines with universal pieces. With a sponsorship from heritage sports brand Reebok, highlights included re-constructed double breasted pinstripe suits with clever unconventional detailing, re-invented nylon shell suits with asymmetric zips, and one-legged slim-cut trousers.
At Namachecko, love was the main influence as well as paying tribute to Kurdish optimism. With refined tailored suits, sleek shirting and unusual but elegant asymmetric knits, the devil was in the detail, with many pieces featuring modernist sculptural buttons inspired by Barbara Hepworth’s work. A bright colour selection of royal blue, burgundy, sunflower yellow and green tied everything neatly together. Statement outerwear was a big focus as well, including forest green shetland-mohair peacoats with toggle buttons and flared sleeves, and a shaggy white sleeveless overcoat, finished with abstract shape details. Other standouts included puffer bomber jackets in blue, black and green, reimagined with an asymmetric wrap-over gilet layer.
A commentary on the explosion of ‘influencer’ culture and the concept of ‘celebrity’, Heron Preston offered a rather tongue-in-cheek collection spilling with on-trend gusto and a fiery edge. A full snakeskin print parka and hooded puffer made an appearance, along with a snakeskin print leather jacket, combat boots, bum bags and evening bags. The womenswear and menswear range experimented heavily with textures and prints including thick diamante belts paired with cargo workwear denim trousers, tracksuit bottoms with leaf camo prints matched with dress shirts with reflective strips, and a two-toned spliced tweed blazer with oversized shoulders, worn over a mini dress with graphic detailing. Known for their elevated streetwear essentials, this season Heron Preston team up with Carhartt WIP and NASA, in celebration of The National Aeronautics and Space Administration agency’s 60th anniversary, which saw the label work in retro elements such as NASA’s authentic 1975 “worm” logo, which was discontinued in 1992.
ENFANTS RICHE DÉPRIMÉS
Tapping into the rugged sex appeal of retro rock ‘n roll, Henri Levy’s Enfants Riches Déprimés was a pastiche of influences this season. Drawing elements from punk aesthetics such as skinny leather trousers, as well a touch of Bauhaus-style graphic prints, head-turning looks included elongated, forties-style asymmetric suits fashioned from various materials such as corduroy, a smooth suede and patent leather black checkerboard jacket, and a high-waisted skirt made entirely from multi-coloured ties.
Thom Browne wowed with the theatrics once again this season - one of the designer’s major strong suits. Inspired by Browne’s schooldays in midwinter, the set was blanketed with snow and Birch trees and a row of camp beds were lined down the middle, each with a rolled-up sleeping bag placed on top. Tailoring-focused but with a sleek sportswear lean, the label’s signatures were in abundance including exquisite grey suiting, and tricolor blue, white and red accents. Outstanding pieces included a slew of ankle-grazing piumino-padded coats and scarves, which looked like they were fashioned from the cosiest of duvets and blankets. Full rib-knit, mohair, tartan, pinstripe, chalk stripe and snowflake ski-sweater motif ensembles made for classic wintery appeal. Further thrown into the mix of debonair looks, were crisp tailored capes, and a down-filled suit overlaid with lace, featuring an all-over dachshund motif.
Designers who have wholesale showrooms currently open-to-ORDRE:
Designer ORDRE, PARDO HATS, Michele Chiocciolini, Sleeper, FAKBYFAK, SINDISO KHUMALO, IRMA CIPOLETTA, BAV TAILOR, cote&ciel, Hill & Friends, JUNE NINETEEN, Names, PHVLO, MIMI PROBER, Dhruv Kapoor, Alighieri, GOYA, PORTS V, Rockins, PAUL SMITH, ARAMLEE
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