Often anchoring collections with artistic references from his Viennese heritage, this season, Arthur Arbesser took to his home base of Milan for inspiration, turning to the works of Italian sculptor, Fausto Melotti.
Alluding to the idea of the artist studio as a place of unfiltered experimentation, designs feature a synthesis of patterns and colours, reminiscent of a painter’s palette. Brand signatures like checks, harlequin prints and bold stripes are juxtaposed with brushstroke motifs, appearing on flowing caftans, midi skirts and overcoats.
In reference to Melotti’s little horse sculptures, a playful print of elongated horse silhouettes recur on plissé skirts and dresses. Adding a touch of glamour to the mix are metallic elements — a dusting of sequins on a green and white checkered slip dress, or a lamé crop top — drawing from the artist’s glazed ceramics and abstract metal sculptures.
Although these contrasting visual cues surface on almost every garment, careful layering offers a sense of balance: fitted bodysuits sit beneath loose silk dresses, rough jute skirts match with dainty sequined crop tops, and jacquard workwear coats and sartorial suit jackets are paired with soft crepe and silk dresses.
The way an artist works on transforming preliminary ideas into a masterpiece, Arbesser fluidly navigates between chaos and order, producing a dynamic collection that remains accessible to the modern woman.