Copenhagen Fashion Week has established itself as a hotbed for exciting young designers. Cecilie Bahnsen’s voluminous silhouettes, Ganni's feminine florals, and Saks Potts’ retro glamour, have all put Copenhagen on the fashion map. Now they’ve all grown up, and the underground talent pool seems firmly entrenched in the mainstream.
Now it seems the opportunities for Danish menswear designers have never looked brighter, with many stepping up their offerings over the last few seasons, quietly filling the void. This is particularly good news for buyers, considering the global menswear market is gaining ground (according to a recent report by trend forecaster WGSN, growth of the menswear market currently outstrips womenswear) and is continuing on an upward trajectory.
ORDRE highlights the menswear designers showing at Copenhagen Fashion Week that should be on your radar.
Launched as an eyewear brand over a decade ago, Han Kjøbenhavn has evolved into a fully fledged menswear label with stand-alone stores in Paris, New York and Copenhagen. Founded by Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen, the label is rooted in the urban grittiness of Danish culture, taking design cues from workwear and sportswear.
The brand has been on the CPHFW official show schedule since 2013. A collaboration with sports powerhouse Puma for SS’18 placed the label on the international fashion map. For SS’19, juxtapositions run riot on the runway: romantic florals collide with rigid tartan prints; sleek sportswear bodysuits mix with loose shirting, and thick leather skirts and shorts balance sheer tops and trousers.
Martin Asbjørn founded his self named menswear line in 2014 after graduating with a degree in menswear tailoring. Elegant and understated, he combines clean lines with a relaxed leisurewear aesthetic and in the process creates the ultimate modern wardrobe. Average price points for silk shirting are €375, sleek trench coats go for €485, and cropped denim jackets sit at €1,600. The brand’s versatility has landed it an impressive list of premium stockists including Machine A in London, Tom Greyhound in Paris and Wism in Tokyo.
Taking its name from the Danish term for vandalism, streetwear label Hærværk is a cult label which is youthful and graphic-heavy. Launched by Niels Gundtoft Hansen in 2016, collections are colourful and draw heavily on streetwear influences — think biker shorts and oversized hoodies worn by The Gorillaz.
The young label has secured numerous leading stockists since launch including Luisa Via Roma in Rome and Copenhagen’s own Henrik Vibskov. All the sportswear staples are present this season: cycle vests, lycra t-shirts and bomber jackets all rendered in a palette reminiscent of retro teenage rebellion.
Established by brothers Julius and Victor Juul, Heliot Emil, is characterised by functional workwear elements and deconstructed silhouettes. Taking electronic club culture as their inspiration, the brand’s monochromatic, unisex aesthetic is wearable and distinctly modern. Debuting their first collection at Milan Fashion Week SS’17, the continue to source technical fabrics globally, whilst garment production takes place in Italy, France and Portugal.