Once defined by minimalism and functionality, Copenhagen’s catwalks told a very different story this season: vivid colours and maximalist patterns appeared in the showcases of newcomers Brøgger and Helmsteadt, while Danish favourites Baum und Pferdgarten sent out a myriad of textures, prints and silhouettes. Keen to break the mould with a striking new take on Scandi design, these are the designers to watch from the Danish capital.
Debuting at Copenhagen Fashion Week just last season, emerging London-based label Brøgger is winning over A-listers like Cate Blanchett with its daring approach to colour and feminine silhouettes. For AW’19, designers Julie Brøgger and Linn Norström Weile played with a mish-mash of patterns: midi dresses and tailored suits were peppered with tulip prints, abstract florals and contrasting tartan, while colour-block blazers – a brand signature – re-emerged in burgundy and azure.
Rotate by Birger Christensen
Another new label upping the status quo for Nordic style is Rotate: the result of a collaboration between heritage concept store Birger Christensen and influencers Jeanette Madsen and Thora Valdimarsdottir. Specialising in designing power dresses for the modern woman, this season’s lineup featured just that - for every occasion - including off-the-shoulder chiffon styles with dainty florals and hot-pink metallic statement pieces with 80's inspired puffed sleeves.
Making its debut on the official Copenhagen Fashion Week calendar this season was Helmstedt. Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts graduate Emilie Helmstedt is redefining the modern wardrobe through laidback silk loungewear and elegant silk pajama sets hand-painted with colourful prints.
Baum und Pferdgarten
To celebrate turning 20, Baum und Pferdgarten’s creative directors - Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave - paid tribute to family, unifying generations through a patchwork of colours, textiles and silhouettes. Grandad's checkered blazers were reconstructed to give youth; landscape and floral prints on silk shirts alluded to Mum’s tenderness; and playful babydoll gowns and organza balloon-sleeves nodded to little sister.