As the Autumn sun set and temperatures dropped on the second-to-last day of Paris Fashion Week, Esteban Cortazar cast a warm glow over the city with his SS’19 offering in the marbled surrounds of the Ecole de Médecine. Warm peach-toned silky separates opened the show, accessorised with large perspex knots, slung across shoulders like handbags or fashioned into belts and necklaces. They added a structural rigidity to an otherwise fluid collection of maxi dresses and duster coats, each as light as the next and as easy to throw on.
Sunset hues graduated from burnt orange to blush and moved into shocks of cobalt, olive green and pure white, all in the same relaxed styling. There were outliers that didn’t quite mesh with the collection, including a few coats which — while matching in colour pallete — felt too heavy against the barely there slip dresses which had come before. Perhaps they were there to pad out what was otherwise a very ‘resort’ collection.
Despite this, as the northern hemisphere looks towards the long winter months ahead, Cortazar transported his audience to a sunnier, warmer destination this season. It’s clear the designer is fine tuning his aesthetic — this season was comparatively pared back — with obvious nods to silhouettes he’s spent years developing: Curved shoulders, tight fitting maxi dresses and an supple fluidity in fabrics are codes which Cortazar finds new ways of reimagining and perfecting each season.