“What is the point in classifying the world by the old codes? Why do we divide the world by the conventional rules for the sake of convenience?” asks Hiromichi Ochiai, Facetasm’s creative director, explaining the Japanese brand’s SS19 collection “Together”.
Shown in Paris’ Ecole de Médecine on Wednesday afternoon, the collection sought to address these questions with hybrid mashups of mens and womenswear that created a space in between. Not to be confused with unisex or genderless dressing, this collection was both masculine and feminine, fused together in a collision of prints and textures.
“I often find the same beauty between two extremes”
An eclectic bunch of models walked in busy looks: layers upon layers of denim, jersey, leather, Prince of Wales check, tulle, fringing, broderie anglaise, plaid...you name it, it was there. Interesting details created depth: zippers that stretched the length of shoulders, undone to reveal the textures, or simply the wearer’s back, underneath. Puffs of tulle and a fan of pleats poked out from a tuxedo or sports jacket. “I often find the same beauty between two extremes,” explains Ochiai. “Because the world always has some contradictions, complexity and irrationality.”
Collaborating with Danish jeweller Vibe Harsloef, each look was adorned with pieces to reflect the season’s theme of togetherness. Beer openers, bottle caps and pill-holders were cast in concrete or silver plating and formed into earrings or necklaces. A particular highlight were the silver facepieces that wrapped around the ear, and followed the lines of the wearers features as if they’d been traced with a metallic marker.
Fusing together disparate, unbalanced elements to create a new idea of balance is what Facetasm does best. Doing so in a manner that comes across as intentional and measured rather than comically spontaneous is no mean feat.