Prior to presenting on the catwalks of Australia Fashion Week, now internationally retailed designers Dion Lee and Alice McCall were virtually unknown. Over 90 designers presented their collections this year at Sydney’s Carriageworks multi-arts centre, and although fashion week veterans such as Zimmermann and Ellery were absent, a handful of emerging designers turned heads.
Inspired by Pablo Picasso’s ceramics and his daughter’s timeless style, Albus Lumen’s Resort ‘19 collection offered summertime essentials with a strong Mediterranean influence. Satin and cotton slip dresses with lean silhouettes and soft suits were presented in powder blues and terracotta browns.
Helmed by former stylist Marina Afonina, Albus Lumen first debuted in Sydney for Resort ‘16. Resonating with international buyers, the label draws strength from effortless simplicity and out-of-office wearability. Stockists include the likes of MatchesFashion, The Undone and Net-a-Porter.
Known for a vibrant tongue-in-cheek aesthetic, Double Rainbouu’s Resort ‘19 collection had a sporty grunge edge. Clashing graphic prints and bright colours featured on athleisure separates and laid back casual wear. The collection was accessorised with large net bags, rubber sandals and their latest Globe sneaker collaboration.
Launched in 2016 by Mikey Nolan and Toby Jones, with a small selection of Hawaiian-inspired shirts, the label has since grown to include ready-to-wear, swimwear, denim, footwear and accessories. A strong menswear range and a bold vision have landed Double Rainbouu prestigious global stockists including Barneys, Need Supply, Ssense, Selfridges, Beams and Lane Crawford, amongst many others.
Ready to make a global impact, Acler offers directional product at accessible price points. Last season, Adelaide duo Kathryn Forth and Julia Ritorto staged a modest, off-schedule lunch presentation. This season, the label made its catwalk debut at MBFWA.
Puffed volumes and textured layers dominated Acler’s Resort ‘19 collection. Deconstructed shirting balanced louche separates and elevated summer dresses, in a palette of clean whites, grey plaid and pops of hot pink. Details such as feminine frills, sheer and opaque layers, and geometric panels offered a perfect day to evening wardrobe.
Dinosaur Designs teamed up with Karla Spetic this season, perfectly complimenting her collection of deconstructed garments. Their signature bold designs stood out on the catwalk, with eye-catching earrings in chunky abstract shapes framing each of the model’s faces. The label also released their latest Blush collection, featuring an assortment of summer toned bangles, thick hoop earrings, statement rings and homeware, made from stone and slate.
Crafted by Stephen Ormandy and Louise Olsen, who also designs her own namesake collections, Dinosaur Designs is a conscious label dedicated to minimising waste and reducing its impact on the environment. It can be found across the globe at The Dreslyn, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Selfridges and Net-A-Porter.
Australia’s current must-have jewellery label is Holly Ryan, who presented at The Suites showrooms at Carriageworks this season. Inspired by contemporary art, sculptural shapes are an integral part of Holly Ryan’s aesthetic. Her resort ‘19 collection featured handcrafted, gold coin pendants and earrings, with mother of pearl accents. The label also collaborated with eyewear brand Pared, founded in Sydney by Samantha Stevenson and Edward Baker, as well as Kim Bexon’s Noosa-based footwear label Woven Palm, on a line of bespoke sandals.
“With so much out there today, I feel it is important to curate a collection of pieces that you will wear forever,” explains Ryan in an official press release.
Launched in 2011, the jeweller made a name for herself outfitting some of Australia's biggest bloggers like Margaret Zhang and celebrities like Bella Hadid. The label can now be found at international retailers such as Browns in London, Ounass in Dubai and Estnation in Tokyo.