New York Fashion Week often struggles to generate the same buzz seen at London or Paris, and AW’19 was once again lacking that sense of excitement. Yet there’s one thing that a number of designers in the Big Apple tend to do consistently well: power dressing. This season a trio of young labels offered a refreshing take on feminine power staples, from sleek suiting with unexpected details, to elevated after-hours pieces. ORDRE takes a look at the designers bringing day-to-night sophistication to New York.
Once a protégé of Phoebe Philo, emerging talent Peter Do has been swaying Philo fans with his unfussy, elevated pieces since launching his label for SS’19. Offering clever wardrobe staples designed to easily transition from day to night, for AW’19 Do drew inspiration from car interiors and notions of safety: boxy asymmetric cuts on pleated skirts and tops echoed the slant of a seatbelt, while large belts cinching cut-out blazers and tailored shirting carved out flattering feminine silhouettes.
This season, Shanghai-based designer Calvin Luo explored his signature structured tailoring from a playful angle. He ventured into new territory with two statement pieces: a trench coat with patent leather balloon sleeves, laden with the designer’s name in swirling typography, and a blue and red striped midi dress with an asymmetric puffed sleeve. But it was a lineup of strong outerwear pieces with unexpected details which stole the show, including plaid suit jackets updated with contrasting panels, and elegant macs featuring contrast stitching and rounded arms
Rosie Assoulin masterfully balances elegant drama and wearability and this season she sent out an ideal line-up for cocktail hour. While her eclectic sensibility shone through in some showstopper pieces like a Monet-inspired ball gown, a sense of equilibrium was emphasised by wide-leg trousers with built-in contrast overskirts, and minimal bustier evening dresses with puffed off-the-shoulder sleeves, while a pair of ivory satin cargo trousers offered a welcome dash of paired-down utility.