Living up to London’s reputation, artistically-urban label JordanLuca was created by two people who met in a nightclub. Now housemates, Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto quit their jobs at major fashion houses in 2017 and launched their eponymous menswear label, experimenting with avant-garde tailoring, streetwear and masculinity. Fast forward just two years and this fashion week sees JordanLuca unveil its second collaboration with legendary British milliner (and one-time club-kid himself) Stephen Jones, at their first runway show in London.
Having someone like luxury hatmaker Jones design headpieces for streetwear might seem unusual but, as a former milliner himself, Bowen asserts that artisanal craft defines the brand. “The roots of JordanLuca are Italian as Marchetto grew up in a small town in Italy. All of our fabrics are made there - we really focus on the quality and finish. But then, the aesthetic comes as a result of living in London and what that represents: its music, its subcultures, all of the different people coming together” Bowen says.
Having two different focuses - London’s volcanic creativity and Italy’s refined tailoring - has allowed JordanLuca to be quite open when it comes to stockists. Their intriguingly cool aura has attracted stores from Harvey Nichols, Hong Kong to SPRMRKT in Ibiza. Nelleke Strijkers, owner of SPRMRKT, says sales are already doing well on the island: “So far we have sold the brand to really great people, like DJS - cool customers. The clubs have only just reopened so it’s only the beginning but so far sales have been super good.” From a buying perspective, SPRMRKT’s Strijkers labels JordanLuca “special basics,” telling ORDRE: “The collection immediately appealed because it was fresh and different - but also really wearable.”
“The roots of JordanLuca are Italian. But the aesthetic comes as a result of living in London.”
Bowen elaborates on the brand’s wearability, hinting at how their cross-cultural collaboration informs design. “Take our tracksuit suit, for example, the front of the suit is crafted from beautiful fabric made by a suiting company in Italy. But then the back is made of nylon, so we’re basically combining two worlds within a garment.” That fusing, or collision even, is explicitly present throughout JordanLuca’s designs from SS19’s beautifully chaotic combination of scrawled messages, clashing fabrics and abnormal silhouettes, to the carefully curated layering of their AW19 collection. And, every piece of chaos is seamlessly connected by a meticulous attention to the finish and quality.
It’s this exacting finish that means the young brand already appeals to a range of contrasting retailers. From Ibiza’s party-goer-taste to Harvery Nichols (where they sell “suiting and the more classic t-shirts”), Bowen adds that having a range of styles within one brand also allows JordanLuca the freedom to sit adjacent to a variety of labels. “Because of our range we have never really sat next to only one type of brand. We have loads of jersey but then at the same time we have £1500 coats. We could be next to Dries Van Noten in one store and then Y Project or Vivienne Westwood in another.”
JordanLuca’s versatility doesn’t mean that its bold identity wavers, though, with thought-provoking concepts behind every collection. Last season, their profound presentation explored Sigmund Freud’s psychosexual theory, displayed in a teenage boy’s bedroom. However, moving forward, it seems the brand’s intriguing identity has evolved to be a springboard to simply create clothes. For their first London Fashion Week Men’s show, Bowen reveals a new departure, “The clothes aren’t going to be over-intellectualized this time. This next collection is all about us and what we’re drawn to as people.”